Looking After the DS
Due to its unique integrated conception and design, the DS operates in a more synergistic way than other cars, requiring all its subsystems to be in top condition for that legendary drive. Keeping these iconic hypcars purring along relies heavily on regular maintenance and check-ups for their hydro-mechanical components. The great news? With a considerable number of DSs still on the road, most spare parts are either being reproduced or can be reliably refurbished. Some original new old stock (NOS) parts are still available from a handful of suppliers, predominantly in France. However, the prerequisite for ensuring your DS remains in prime condition is sourcing a complete and restorable vehicle in the first place.
If you are on the hunt for a DS, here are some crucial points to keep in mind. First, watch for any signs of corrosion in the superstructure, underbody and body panels. Next, give the hydropneumatic system a thorough inspection for leaks, both external and internal; this is vital for maintaining that famous comfortable ride and handling, as well as preventing any unsightly stains from appearing beneath your car. Finally, scrutinise the mechanical components for excessive wear or malfunction to avoid any nasty surprises, such as shocking repair bills. This inspection should cover the virtually indestructible engine, gearbox and transmission, front arms along with their bearings, ball joints, and rear trailing-arm bearings.
When it comes to bodywork inspections, bear in mind that any DS is at least 50 years old! Finding a subframe, side members, and panels in excellent condition is quite rare. Still, there is good news: many body parts are readily available. However, be cautious, as body panels—aside from the aluminium bonnet and fibreglass roof—can be susceptible to dings due to their lack of reinforcing ribs and are prone to rust. The more opulent Pallas models, laden with an extra 50 kilos of luxurious features and chrome adornments, can often conceal rust and other serious flaws beneath their shiny façades. Fortunately, every panel is fully removable and can either be restored or replaced. Body-panel replacements—except for that elusive aluminium bonnet—can be obtained in both sheet steel and synthetic materials.
Regarding hydropneumatics, the authentic DS models have a more complex hydraulic setup compared to the simpler ID and D Super/Special counterparts. Often equipped with a semi-automatic gearbox, these models require more intricate maintenance checks. The complexity of the additional hydraulic components should not be overlooked, and it is a decisive criterion when deciding which model to choose. In all models, the smoothness of the ride is tied to the condition of the suspension spheres. If the ride is not as smooth as silk, it’s time to recharge or replace those suspension spheres.
With five decades of experience with the DS, we can confidently assert that hydraulic failures are often the leading cause of immobilisation, outpacing mechanical or electrical issues. Cracked and leaking low-pressure return hoses are typically to blame, although we occasionally encounter broken high-pressure pipes. The good news is that crucial components in the hydraulic system, such as the high-pressure pump (left photo above), brake pump, circuit breaker, hydraulic gear (right photo above), steering, and suspension cylinders (middle photo above), tend to give warning signs long before a total breakdown occurs.
On the flip side, purely mechanical components are nearly indestructible. The engines and gearboxes of the DS (see the left photo below) are widely regarded as bombproof, provided their cooling systems are functioning properly. However, the EFi (fuel injection) DS 21 and DS 23 models do require a bit more care regarding the injector pipes (see the right photo below); any leaks here could raise alarms that may necessitate a visit from the fire brigade! Thankfully, the electrical system remains relatively straightforward, resulting in a robust and reliable setup. Issues with the regulator, alternator, starter, or fuel pump are quite rare.
Our DS in the hypcar collection has recently undergone an exhilarating complete overhaul, and you can find all the incredible details in the video below!
For more tips on buying and caring for a DS, explore clubs and enthusiasts’ websites or consider joining a relevant club. Just a heads-up that not all resources may be in English. Here are a few examples:
When it comes to restoring and upgrading dashboard instrumentation, Fabrice is simply the best in the business!
Finally, since 2020, Citroën DS Manufaktur in Germany has been bringing DS models back to life on demand.
Key Data for Routine Maintenance of Your DS 23 EFi
- Fuel tank: 65 litres petrol.
- Engine lubricant: 5 litres mineral oil 20W50.
- Transmission lubricant: 2 litres gearbox oil SAE90 or 80W90.
- Hydraulic circuit: 5.2 litres LHM fluid.
- Engine coolant: 13.5 litres.
- Spark plugs: MARCHAL 35.1B / AC42FS / BOSCH W225 T35 / EYQUEM 705 S / Champion L87Y / Marelli CW7N – CW240N (gap 0.6-0.7 mm).
- Battery: 250/50 Ah.
- Tyres: Michelin 185 HR 15 XAS/XVS. Recommended pressure front/rear: 30/26 psi.
- Suspension sphere pressure (front/rear): 75/40 bars (welded spheres), 59/26 bars (split spheres).
Low-Mileage Operating Intervals
- Yearly (max 5,000 km): change the oil and filter, lubricate doors, bonnet, handbrake, horn, distributor, and add a few drops of oil on the rear of the dynamo and the fan shaft.
- Every 2 years (max 10,000 km): yearly maintenance + renew coolant, lubricate front suspension and steering (at 14 points: 6 roll bar rods, 4 steering rods, 4 ball pins). Check, adjust, or replace: spark plugs, contact points, and drive belts.
- Every 4 years (max 20,000 km): 2-year maintenance + renew LHM (max. 30 000 km), clean its filter with petrol and air, clean the air filter, blow clean the water and oil radiators, lubricate the rear suspension ball bearings, lubricate the height correctors’ rods. Check, adjust, or replace: injection pipes, valve/tappet clearance (max. 10,000 km), fuel pipes, 6 hydropneumatic spheres, parking brake, rear drums, hydraulic hose connections, ground clearance, front wheel alignment, tyre balancing.
- Every 10 years (or upon reaching specified kilometres): 2-year maintenance + check/replace the fuel filter (max. 20,000 km), replace the distributor capacitor (max. 20,000 km), replace the ignition coil (max. 60,000 km), replace the drive belts (max. 50,000 km), check front suspension ball joints, steering rods, and rear swinging arms for any play.
- At 100,000 km: replace the timing chain and its tensioner.